Koh Ta Kiev (& Sihanoukville)
08.04.22 - 17.02.22
Tuesday 8th February 2022
The coach journey from Phnom Penh to Sihanoukville was hard work. I wanted to look out of the window but the woman in front kept pulling the shared blind down – it was a battle, we settled on having it open enough for me to just about enjoy the view. And the noise was so intense and hard to turn off, not only was music being piped through the speakers but no-one seemed to have headphones for their mobile phones and everyone had their volume turned up high either listening to music or watching tic-took videos – it was hard to switch it all off. At one point we stopped for the toilet and there was no water, not even to flush the toilet, so I got my hand sanitizer out and offered it to one lady and before I knew it I had a queue of Cambodian ladies all wanting a squirt of it – I was happy to oblique and I got lots of smiles from them when I got back on the coach.
I was distraught at the amount of rubbish lining the road, and nearly all of it was plastic, it was relentless until we got near to Sihanoukville, I was saddened by it all, and the fact that people have to live with it, eat and sleep next to it and children play in it. I wonder if the Cambodian people have become so used to it they are now blind to it. Once we were near SHV, the rubbish became far less intense but this was really only where there were new builds, obviously there is money in these areas.
I think today, well at least this evening has been my worst, most frustrating, I don’t like Cambodia experience yet. The day started off well, I got a ticket on the midday coach to Sihanoukville without a hiccup and had an hour to spare so I went and had pork and noodle soup for breakfast. Getting to the coach was reminiscent of a previous journey in Thailand, I was put onto one tuk-tuk which delivered me to a stop and then put on another tuk-tuk which delivered me to the coach station. On the coach I booked a hostel that I thought was on a beach near Sihanoukville, but when they emailed confirming the reservation, they told me that the only boat to the island of Koh Ta Kiev was at 12.30pm, I was arriving at 6pm and a private boat to the island cost $30 as opposed to the $7 they quoted me. Easy peasy, or so I thought, and I booked myself into a room for the night in Sihanoukville, I even tried to cancel the island hostel thinking I may like a couple of days in SHV – so bloody glad I couldn’t work out how to cancel it. Anyway, on arrival I got in a tuk-tuk and it was the slowest bloody thing I have ever been in and to top it all the driver was, although very sweet, totally incompetent. The hostel, Miracle Hostel, was only 5 minutes from the bus station, 20 minutes later the driver tries to drop me off down some dark deserted street – no way – and Google maps was telling me that we were still 5 minutes away from [a] Miracle. There was no phone number for the hostel on the booking confirmation and to top it all off my phone had 10% battery left. Anyway, somehow or another I directed the driver to where Google said Miracle was but it was not there, so we went back on the main road and asked some guys, at that point my phone died ☹ and low and behold the guys directed us to the place we had just been – OMG – and the tuk-tuk driver, yet again, wanted to drop me off in the middle of nowhere, now with no phone, and he even expected me to pay him – no way ho-say. I left my rucksack in his tuk-tuk and stated to walk toward what looked like a sign for a guesthouse, he followed behind me (yes, his tuk-tuk was that slow), obviously not wanting to lose his fair.
So now I am in a room that is more like an American style motel where you would take a prostitute and it’s costing me $15 for the night for the privilege of listening to an orgy going on upstairs. I have emailed the Island hostel to tell them I am still coming – I so hope I still have a room there – God knows what happened to [my] Miracle, but it certainly wasn’t where it was supposed to be. And I hate Sihanoukville – I may as well be in China – all the buildings and neon lights and all the signs for all the (knocking) shops and millions of casinos etc. are in Cambodian and Chinese – it is horrific – a truly Americanized but Chinese city, kind of what I expect Las Vegas to be like and, although I only went to the corner shop, I recon this place is a pure knocking shop, worse than the area of Phnom Penh I stayed in – at least that looked lie what I expected Cambodia to look like, well most of it did. So, to calm my stress levels (lol) I’ve just been reading about the Chinese influence on Cambodia, and it is disgusting, basically they have bought Cambodia for 600 million pounds worth of investment and guess where all the profit goes… At least Phnom Penh, although living in the shadow of Cambodia’s genocidal past, had some originality to it – I was much happier there – I hope the island is better cause if it not then I think I will do Siam Reap, Angkor Wat, perhaps Kampot, and then get the fuck out of this country – I really am not enjoying it.
Koh Ta Kiev
Wednesday 9th February 2022
I need to learn to chillax when all around me seems to be going pear shaped – this morning I could hear myself get into a flustered panic and there really wasn’t any need. I got a Pass App tuk-tuk from Sihanoukville without any problems but did freak out that it was 27,800 riel, that was until I worked it out to be just over £5 – lol. What a relief to be leave that place, I managed to get a few pics from the tuk-tuk, the amount of building work that is going on is amazing, and all Chinese. Even the road between SHV and Ream beach was new, ready for all the Chinese tourists that are expected to arrive over the next couple of years. It dawned on me that all the new housing that I saw from the coach yesterday must be Chinese expats, I really don’t think that many Cambodians can affords to rebuild their houses. I was a bit jarred with the tuk-tuk driver as I gave him 30,000 riel and he didn’t want to give me any change, lol, so I got back in the tuk-tuk and refused to move until he did. FFS, my panic set in when I realized there are no ATM machines here at Ream Beach and the island I’m going to doesn’t have any and the hotel only accepts cash or Cambodian bank transfer. The poor lady at Shop 18 (where I got the boat from), not sure what she must have thought of this mad English woman, and she didn’t understand ‘ATM’ I had to get my card out and mimic taking money out – there is always a way to communicate. Anyway, like I said, I need to learn not to panic so much as the lady arranged for a guy to take me to the airport where the nearest ATM is. At first, they were not going to let me in to use it, the lady said it was broken and started to tell me where to find the next one, which was miles away, then a security guard said to let me in – I love that man!
So now I’m just waiting for my ferry boat, it doesn’t leave for another 45 minutes but at least I can sit here, drink coffee and chillax. The vista is very beautiful and after SHV it is actually putting a smile back on my face – I hope the Chinese don’t ruin this area as well – it really is more of what I was expecting – authentic. The sound of the waves are so relaxing and in front of me are 2 guys lazing in their hammocks and chatting away. Lol, the lady is still in her pajamas, that is one thing I have noticed, the women in Cambodia seem to wear their PJs all day, more so than the few I saw in Thailand, and who can blame them, I love a PJ day!
Later: I’ve found a little piece of paradise called Koh Ta Kiev – OMG – this certainly makes up for Sihanoukville, a place I hope to never return to. The boat to the island was a little choppy, but not like the one to Eden Gardens, and I got wet up to my boobs getting in and out of the boat (much to the delight of my all-male company!) but the water was so warm, verging on hot, I am defo going swimming while I’m on the island. I was just beginning to feel the sea sickness creep in when we docked. I helped by carrying the eggs the 8-minute trek through the jungle to Kactus Hostel and wow – I was totally blown over. Fittingly it is completely wooden and mainly on stills, my room is a hut with a straw roof, so is the shower-room and toilet. The main area is similar but with a rambling walk way and lots of decking areas, the one I am on at the moment protrudes over the beach and into the sea – I can see myself sitting here every evening watching the sunset and every morning doing the 8 minute trek to watch it rise. They have a variety of activities including yoga and a workroom area to make whatever inspires you from whatever shit they find lying around i.e. mostly plastic and wood. I am glad I went to Sihanoukville, just for the experience of how awful it is, but I do now wish I had come straight here last night. I’m booked in for 4 nights but I can see that turning into a week if not more 😊Robinson Crusoe – that’s what it reminds me of – a desert island in the middle of nowhere. I don’t have the words to do it justice, the phots I’ve taken say it all.
Thursday 10th February 2022
Last night was quite amazing, the sounds of the jungle and night creatures kept me awake for ages, and it was so hot – no aircon or fans in the jungle/beach. I really wanted to leave the door tarpaulin rolled up but was a little scared of waking to find a wild beast in my room, although the tarpaulin wouldn’t have stopped them if they had wanted to come and visit me. At 2am the rain started and it poured down, the noise of it on my straw roof was so intense and my bladder was so full, no more late night beers for me – lol. When it died down a little I made the short trek to the bathroom and it was so refreshing to feel the warm rain drops on my skin, but a little spooky with just my phone touch lighting me way. After that I slept well but had some mad dreams, none of which I can now remember.
I was just talking with Tina, a very lovely Russian who works here. She was telling me about how it is the Chinese mafia that have taken over Cambodia and have bought all the coastline, including the islands. She was explaining that a lot of the Chinese buildings are vacant and used for money laundering and how they have not paid many of the Cambodian construction companies for their labor. She also told me about a friend who got a job with a Chinese company and how they took his phone from him and basically kidnapped him as he knew too much about what they were doing, and even though the Cambodian police know that things like this are happening they do nothing about it. She said that eventually her friends’ family had to pay a lot of money to rescue him. She then told me about a Vietnamese prostitute who was working for the Chinese and because she did something they did not like they cut of her hands and sent her back to Vietnam –
OMG – My heart is breaking for the Cambodian people, the corruption of their government, police and the invasion of the Chinese – what will happen to them, how will they ever get themselves out of this situation – or will Cambodia simply become/stay a Chinese stronghold for their mafia – why do I feel the only way out will mean more blood shed these poor people – my heart is broken for them. Coming here has opened my eyes to the true despicable nature of human beings – sometimes I feel so ashamed to be one.
Later: I was meant to do my TEFL while lazing on the beach. OK I know it is only the first day, but I hardly did anything, my intension was finish assignment B today and send if off – I did about half an hour work and then had food and chillax in the hammock before having a splash around in the sea. I had only meant to go for a walk but the temptation was too much and as the beach was deserted I stripped off down to my underwear and went in – it’s so shallow for a long way out but it’s still very choppy today so I didn’t swim, just splashed about. It’s quite overcast now, it’s going to rain again tonight, I can feel it in my bones – I think I may have to get the ear plugs out! From what I can smell all the staff here are smoking weed!
Friday 11th February 2022
Last night I went to the main hut, it was happy hour, so I had a Long Island Iced Tea, followed by a couple of beers. The weather was out of this world, thunder and lightning but no rain, then suddenly there was enormous flash of lightning and huge roar of thunder, one immediately after the other and right next to where I was sitting – I jumped out of my skin and turned grey – lol – everyone in the room also jumped and then the rain came. It was torrent, the sound defining but so calming to listen to. Unfortunately, the kitchen had closed by the time I thought about food, so I got a bowl of nuts to tide me over. OMG – without looking I grabbed a handful and stuffed them in my mouth and began chewing on a salted chilly pepper – my mouth was on fire and there were 2 more in the bowl which I ate with a lot more caution – lol.
I slept well last night but woke with a hangover! I’m sure I heard some movement in my room as I was dozing off. I didn’t dare look or turn the light on. I woke this morning to find animal droppings next to my bed – all I can say is the mosquito netting serves many a purpose and I was glad I had tucked it in under the mattress – lol. So far today, bar sweep the room and make the bed I have done absolutely nothing. This afternoon I am going to be a good girl and work on my TEFL but first lunch.
Saturday 12th February 2020
Yesterday afternoon I got chatting to Yana from Norway, who is the grey bearded guy from the boat. It only turns out that he’s a computer science teacher! But of adults and wow he wasn’t shy in boasting about his programming skills and how he’s writing a program that he thinks will bring him millions – it’s for a fetish site. He did make me laugh, I think he was trying to shock me, because he brought it up several times – but things like that don’t shock me – lol. Luckily, I had just finished my assignment b, as after our chat and drink I was 100% mashed and unable to do much bar lay in my hammock! So today I am feeling very happy, my assignment just needs a check through and submitting and what with the beach in front, the jungle to the rear and a bar only a few steps away – what more could I ask for? Absolutely nothing!
Sunday 13th february 2020
Yesterday, after a lot of fraffing around I finally submitted assignment B. To celebrate I got a little bit too happy during happy hour and had a munchies attack so ate a huge portion of fish fritters. Admitting an early defeat, I got myself a GnT and some nuts and trundled of to my cabin. I had one mouthful of GnT and passed out for a good 4 hours (I think it was about 4?) with the door open and the light on! I then crawled into bed but woke at midnight, went to the loo and returned to notice all these little brown winged flying insects in the room – large clusters of them on the floor and on the corners of the beds, it wasn’t so much as ‘yuk’ but rather just a bit shocking and all I could think was thank god for the mosquito netting – not worth think about where they would be without it! Snuggled under the netting, light off thinking they would fly away, could I get to sleep, nope, all I could do was lay there listening to the sounds of mother nature until around 4pm when sleep finally overcame me. When I woke, I took a very tentative peep from the under the netting, shit they hadn’t gone. I got up to investigate only find I was looking at millions of little brown wings and the odd upside-down beetle, that must have obviously shed a pair of those wings, on an even deeper investigate I could see a couple of bugs that were still alive and making a run for it – think most of them must have fallen through the large gaps between the floorboards to the sand below and a couple had only shed one wing – must be a mutant chromosome – lol. I’ve reached out on FB with the pics to see if anyone can enlighten me as to what they were and then swept them all away, including a couple of crushed ones which I must have trodden on, bare foot, when I woke for the loo, I only noticed them on the way back. Last time I leave the door open and light on, next time it could be spiders – they’d find me asleep in the main hut, bags packed ready to leave – lol – not.
The sea was beautifully calm this morning, the tide wasn’t crashing in as it seems to have done every day so far, instead it was gliding in, I was tempted and should have given in to temptation, but had all those though bloody fly wings to sweep out ☹ In the jungle bits of tree, such as dead leaves, fruit, nuts and large, rather heavy bits of branches are regularly falling to the ground, I think it may be a matter of time before a bit of tree falls on me, I hope it’s gentle and forgiving. Lol – Yana told me a story today about how a guy lost his wallet, only to find it a little latter, it had been munched on by a rat and so had the $400 dollars he had in it – time to stash the cash properly!
Tuesday 15th February 2022
Happy Valentine’s Day Everyone (only a day late!)
I just had the best Valentine’s day I’ve had for years, maybe even ever, and it was non-romantic which made it even more romantic! As I was leaving the main hut the night before last Yana said we could walk to the other side of the island, a place I had been wanting to go. It’s a little trek through the jungle, so company was just what I needed as I wasn’t sure about trekking through the forest on my own. It turned out to actually be fairly do able as the path was clear and well-trodden but I’d still be para doing it on my own and I would have probably spooked myself out – lol. Dangerous places jungles – I was carefully watching my footing as my walking sandals, although perfect, are open toed making it easier to scuff your toes or trip, when twice I smashed my head into a low hanging bit of tree – and there I was worried about bits of tree falling on me! The walk was awesome, and we finally came out to such a beautiful beach with calm blue waters which were shallow for such an amazing distance. At one point we did a left and walked through this abandoned hostel on the beach, Yan said he stayed there before covid – it looked so awesome, I recon they had the best parties. The sea was delicious, shallow, warm, calm and easy to swim in – we stayed in until my fingers were painfully pruned. And it was just perfect to have mature adult company on valentine’s day in a romantic place with no romance so I could just chill as though he was not there. After the swim we walked the length of Long Beach (ha ha) to Crusoe hostel (where he has moved to today) for a spot of late lunch and a beer 😊
Last night, in the main hut, I got talking a large, wobbly (I’m not being rude, she really did wobble) young solo female traveler from France (or Spain?), very shy and very much on the learning spectrum, hats off to you girl, she has been travelling on her own for 3 months, a couple of weeks longer than me, she seemed so lovely, but became very shy when Yana came and joined us, although admittedly, he was quite rude and used his body to push her down the sofa, rather than just asking her to move up. Our conversation came to a stop, and she left soon after. I will defo chat with her tonight if she’s around.
Thursday 17th February 2022
What a perfect end to a purely indulgently relaxing 8 days…




















































































































































