Chaing Mai (20.01.22 - 26.01.22)
Thursday 20th January 2022
I did nothing yesterday and so needed it – fully rested and recovered and ready to go again
Today I arrived in Chiang Mai, and wow what a journey. I had a pure touch and have learnt a valuable lesson and money saving tip. I tried to book my train on 12go Asia, I have been using this site religiously, but it kept telling me I couldn’t book until 2 hours before train departure time, which was 5:30 pm, and the Bangkok to Chiang Mai train. So today I checked out of the hotel at midday and headed to the train station to buy my ticket and then planned to hang around for a few hours – lol, my plan was happily ruined … the next train was at 12.39 and instead of costing me 80 baht it was 23 baht – 3rd class, local train – laughing all the way. But not only laughing the scenery was magical, I hung out of the window all the way, green and lush as we climbed higher and higher and stopped at all the local villages and each station was beautifully adorned with flowers and quaint station houses – so picturesque – I really couldn’t absorb enough of it.
I haven’t done anything today bar go to the 7 eleven store and then watch this old man at the hostel shit himself all over the reception area floor. I felt so sorry for him as he cleaned up his mess before cleaning up himself and then it reminded it me of my dad, when he had cancer and I brought him home to care for him and he wouldn’t let me wash or clean him. Then one night I woke with him standing in my door way clutching his zimmer frame in tears, his colostomy bag had exploded and he was covered from head to foot in his own shit – from that night on he let me change him and bath him – the memory made me cry – so here I am sitting in one of the most beautiful places in the world I have ever been crying my heart out for my dad who passed away, I think, 25 years ago this month – time is not a healer – time just helps to fog over memories that hurt you – and then something happens and they are raw again – so raw.Â
And I can’t believe I asked Yas when Teon’s birthday is. My calendar was saying 4th of February, but I knew that was wrong, it’s the 3rd, how can I ever forget that day – my dad was buried that day and a few years later his first great grandson was born – a truly bitter-sweet day and the love I have for them both is un-measurable – miss you dad – miss you so much – but I thank you so much for giving me the strength to believe in myself and to follow my heart and my dreams for without you and the belief you had in me and have given me I would not be here now. You know what he’d say to me right now, if he could, ‘stop being a big girls bouse’ So I will, for I know I have 3 angels walking beside me, my Dad, Granny Spooner and my Nanny Pearl – and I thank them all for just being there and guiding me in what has been the most blessed life I could have ever asked for.
Saturday 22nd January 2022
Yesterday I woke with a hangover – too much vodka – I think I feel asleep during the opening titles to Deer Hunter – lol. Anyway, I still managed to go on three walks, the first was to get food. I was pleasantly surprised to find a food market area less than 5 minutes walk from here and even more pleasantly surprised to find a stall selling ‘proper’ vegetables – yum yum, it feels like 7 weeks since I had a plate (or even plastic bag!) of vegetables. I also bought some little pastie looking things and some spring rolls – yet again my eyes were too big for my belly, and it took me a whole day of grazing to finish the lot. My main walk was in the afternoon, I strolled into the old Chiang Mai town area, which, as the map depicts is a true square, and used to be walled, parts of the wall are remaining but most of it is now a mote. I passed more Wats than I could count and finally found myself at the Elephant Sanctuary booking office, which was closed! Still, I can book it online. One thing that is noticeable here more than Bangkok is that it caters for tourists, and for the first time since being in Thailand I have seen shop after shop that accept debit / credit cards. English and American voices prevail and there are more bars and café of a western style here than I have seen anywhere else. As much as Chiang Mai is beautiful and historic with an amazing backdrop of mountains, I think I prefer Ayutthaya and Lampang – both seemed a lot more authentic, less touristy (but obviously not). My final walk was an obligatory one, Friday night, the internet is down – do I sit in my bunk and read or do I go out. The market area was alive and kicking compared to the morning visit. Food stalls had set up in the main square area and along the roadside and were heaving with people. I also came across a sushi stall and haven’t stopped thinking about it since. I didn’t stay out for long and ended up have a much needed early night. But before I hobbled into my bunk, I got chatting to a Thai guy who is staying here, I thought he worked here so I started by asking him if he knew what was wrong with the internet – lol. Anyway, he was such a nice guy and told me about which Wats I should visit in Chiang Rai and how Chiang Rai is far nicer place than Pai, both being places I plan to visit while in North Thailand. We had a good old chat about London as he lived there for 25 years and only came back to Thailand due to covid.
This morning I was sitting outside the hostel drinking coffee when Pat, the guy from last night, appears with food, he told me where to buy good cheap coffee and then gave me a pasta dish for breakfast – how bloody nice was that – and so delicious. He also told me that if wanted to exercise in the mornings I could jog round the area – was that a hint – LMFHO. When I tried to book an appointment for the travel clinic last week (I need the last of my rabies, Japanese encephalitis and Hep B) they emailed back and said I could attend as walk in patient – so I went this morning. The doctor I saw said I don’t actually need the hep b until May, so I had my last rabies and a live culture jab of JE and was warned that I may be feverish for a couple of days – bloody hell, I hope not I want to go an elephant sanctuary, trek through the forest and bamboo rafting before I leave for Pai on Wednesday. After the clinic I thought I’d go and chill in the public park, it looked beautiful on the internet, trees, flowers and waterfalls, a lovely place to while away the afternoon – it was closed – closed to the point that it they had wrapped black plastic round it! Anyway, I found another green area and sat and contemplated life for half hour before walking back to the hostel. On route I stopped for a meat soup, I’m not sure what the meat was, but it certainly wasn’t chicken or pork, perhaps it was beef? I also came across several pet stores, it was so sad to see so many birds all in one cage waiting to be sold, the reptiles and snakes were quite amazing though. The internet is till down at this hostel, I’m really not impressed as I need to apply for my visa for Cambodia, change my flights home and book my visit to Pai. It’s Saturday evening now, I could go and find a bar full of English farangs, but the question is, do I really want to. What I’d really like to do is pig out on sushi while watching a film – I think I’m turning old and sad – lol.
Bela left Sri Lanka today, flying back home – I’m gonna miss her so much, she has been awesome company, as always, and even though in a different country she was only an hour behind, it was almost like having her here. I think we’ve been in contact nearly every day for 6 weeks – come back Bela, it’s 4 degrees in England, you’ll freeze.
Sunday 23rd January 2022
What a lovely evening I had last night, Pat took me for a drink, only three doors down and bought deep fried prawns and noodles for us to share. We philosophised about life and the difference between living standard in the UK and here, we got angry over the young Thai girls that marry old men with not many years left in them and he boasted about how rich he was from selling his house, and then apologised for boasting. He said he had never conversed with an English lady the way he had with me and admired me for travelling on my own and said it showed I have strength and wisdom – lol. I was very disappointed when he told me he was off to Bangkok this morning, he has a house there he needs to see to, but we exchanged numbers and I promised to call if I find myself in Bangkok on the way to Cambodia.
This morning I was debating between street food breakfast or a 7 eleven toastie. So glad I decided not to be lazy and opted for the former as there was a little clothes market in the square where the night food market sets up. I almost bought a pair of cotton trousers, but they were a plain colour and I quite fancy something a little more jazzy, perhaps with elephants on – lol. My plan for today is to find a coffee shop with Wi-Fi and apply for my Cambodia visa and sort my tickets and accommodation for Pai and Chiang Rai. Tonight there is a Sunday Walking Street market in the old town – I have double checked and people have posted pictures of it from last weekend so it should be open.
Later – what a chilled but productive Sunday this has been. In need of an internet connexion, I first went to a coffee shop and there I booked hostels for Pai, Chiang Rai and Phnom Penh in Cambodia and applied for my Cambodia e-visa (fingers crossed for me). I also had a red curry and rice for lunch (no wonder I am putting on weight rather than losing it, pasta for breakfast, rice for lunch!). After that I went for a stroll and then resided in a bar for a couple of hours and booked my mini bus to Pai, a ticket for tomorrow for the Chiang Mai Elephant Sanctuary, which includes an afternoon trek through the forest and a ride down a river on a bamboo raft and emailed Nenad about the bottom floor apartment for Rupert’s friends, I also did a little bit of research, I think I can fly from Chiang Rai to Bangkok for £10 and then on to Phnom Penh in Cambodia for £59 – so cheap  All in all I am a happy puppy and hopefully this evening I will change my flight home, which is on the 2nd of February, to the 2nd August, via Vienna where I will disembark and get a coach to Zagreb in Croatia for Defected (it’s only a 4 hour drive) and I must also book to visit the Doi Inthanon National Park for this Tuesday. If I get all of that done then I will go to bed feeling very smug indeed.
Monday 24th January 2022
I didn’t make it to the night market ☹ and it was open, just my bloody luck – lol – instead I sat outside the hostel talking to a young guy called Max, he’s been here for 4 months, but back in Thailand since the outbreak of covid. He was in Japan before working, however, again due to covid, he lost his job and had to come home – a bit like Pat. We had an awesome conversation, even though his English was a bit strained, mainly about cultural differences and Thai politics. He kept looking over his shoulder when we talked politics as he had nothing good to say about the king or the government and you mustn’t be heard talking negatively about them, you could get locked up for it! Something really interesting he told me about was the guy that owns 7 Eleven and how he also owns many other businesses and has made many people unemployed. For example, 10 years ago you could buy several brands of bread and tea and now only his. Max explained how he is now doing it to the pork farmers, and how many are losing business because they cannot afford to sell at the cheap prices that he sells it for. He said that to do this he must be good friends or family of the king or government or else is paying them a huge back hander. He also told me how he felt confused by western girls, he said he really liked a German tourist, and she went everywhere with him, in Thai if a girl does this it means she likes you and wants a relationship with you, if she does not like you she will keep you at arms length. It turns out the German girl did not like him the way he thought, and she ended up going off with a German guy, he said he was very upset. I explained that in Western culture it was not unusual for opposite sexes to just be friends, but close friends and always hang out together. I felt sorry for him.
I didn’t sleep well last night, having set my alarm clock so I would be up in time for the Chiang Mai Elephant Sanctuary Trip, I kept waking to check the time as I didn’t want it to go off and disturb the other 2 girls in the room – turns out they both woke up at 6:30 anyway – lol.
The elephant sanctuary was awesome, my guide was very camp and the driver very butch, but both were extremely lovely. I thought there may have been other people on the tour, but I was the only one! On the way we stopped at a morning market which was not as impressive as the one near the hostel. Once we were near the sanctuary we got out of the car and walked to a Karen hill tribe, they are Christians rather than Buddhist and originate form Myanmar. It was very interesting, all their animals are left to freely roam around, although some of the pigs were tethered, the women do weaving and the men are all farmers. Their houses are all on stilts due to rain and snakes. When we got to the sanctuary I had to put on a trainers top, Lucy (my guide) said it was for the smell. There were only 3 elephants present, normally they have 5, but one was in hospital with a damaged eye and the other roaming in the jungle somewhere. But 3 was more than enough for me, 2 females, one 15 years old and the other 16, both had been rescued form a circus, and a baby (one and a half years) that had been born at the sanctuary. Elephants live up to the age of 80, eat 200 tons of food a day and poo at least 10 times a day – that’s vegetarians for you – lol. I fed them, attempted to cover them in mud, walked to the river with them and bathed them – bloody awesome experience even though I was quite weary of them, they are more than happy to push you out of the way and being so big and me so little …. After the elephants we did a short trek to a beautiful waterfall, I think Lucy was surprised I didn’t go for a swim, but the water was bloody freezing and standing under the spray was as much as I could handle. Behind the waterfall was a cave area with a sand carving of the Di Inthnonan, which is where I am going tomorrow. Lunch was decent and plentyfull and I was accused of not eating a lot (why am I so fat then?). After that we got back in the car and went to the bamboo rafting place, unfortunately Lucy told me to leave my phone in the car, why did I listen to him, the river and surrounding areas were so beautiful and I have no photos. The guy punting the raft said that many people end up dropping their phones and cameras in the river as it gets quite precarious in places due to the rapids. And that was the end of a fantastic day, however we had finished an hour early. On the way back I checked the itinerary and Lucy had missed out the hours trek from the sanctuary to the rafting place, I was very disappointed, but perhaps it was because after lunch I told him I was very tired. Tomorrow, when / if exhaustion creeps in I will keep my mouth shut. Anyway, it was an absolutely fabulous day and I highly recommend it.
Sitting here now, whilst writing this, I’ve seen a few tourist head into town, probably going for a drink, but do I have the energy or want to join them – no I don’t and it’s another early start tomorrow so I think I’ll take a stroll to the 7 eleven and get a bottle of something or another and sit here for the rest of the evening.
Tuesday 25th January 2022
What can I say, another fabulous day, if anything, bar the elephants even better than yesterday. This time there were 6 of us on the tour and what a difference having company makes, there was Danny from NY, he wasn’t very sociable, bit of a prick if you ask me; a lovely couple, he was French and she Kirkliston; a gay couple, one from Sweden and the other Russian. We started by driving to the top of Doi Inthanon, which, at 2565m above sea level, is the highest point in Thailand and also know as the ‘roof of Thailand’. It was very cold at 5 degrees and I was glad that I had my jacket and, going again all principles, was able to put some sock on, I was wearing my walking sandals – lol – thank god the fashion police don’t exist in Thailand! From there we went on a 2 hour trek in the forest which was mainly uphill, OMG, why did I squeeze in a fag before we set off is beyond me. The start of the trek was a climb up a billion steps and I struggled, I hate to admit it buy my heart and my lungs were killing me and, much to the horror of everyone else, I had to stop several times to recuperate, but once I explained I was a smoker they seemed to understand and the guide, Cho, even slowed down a bit for me. I was actually fine when we climbed on pathway, but every time we hit stairs, which were designed to make the climb easier, I struggled. Unlike not so many years ago, I am now so unfit, menopause and a lack of exercise for the last couple of years has ruined me. Anyway, it was bloody worth it cause the views were phenomenal. According to the internet Doi Inthanon is the last part of the Himalayan Mountain range and I read on one site that it is a footway into them. Wow, I could have stung a hammock, cracked a beer and stayed there all day. After the trek we went to lovely little market run by the Hmong Hill Tribe who originate from southwest of China, had a free taste of some nasty wine which the woman was very proud of, but it really was vinegar with flavouring added, the lychee flavoured one was fairly palatable but not for me. Instead I bought some dried fruit and a little pressy for Rachel. After that we had a delicious lunch before heading to a Karen Hill Tribe that made araba coffee. Finally, we went to the spectacular Watchathon waterfall, and although not the highest in Thailand it is the highest in this region.
I am very happy today, not only has my request not to have tax deducted from my rental income (£290 a month), which they do for those living outside of the UK for more than 6 months, been accepted and backdated to the 1st of January, I also got my visa for Cambodia 😊.












































































































































































