Samut Prakan (08.12.21 - 15.12.21)

Wednesday 8th December 2021

8am – Rolling around in bed wondering about breakfast when there was knock on the door, so as you do, I opened it and there was my breakfast left on the table outside the room and a quick room service call got me my caffeine fix. The breakfast tasted a lot better than it looked although the toast was a little rubbery and they only gave me 3 half slices – who ate my fourth half slice?

The drive to the Samut Prakan district where Tracey lives was a feast for the eyes. Bangkok is much more built up than I was expecting, more like I am expecting Singapore to look like, with lots of high rise tower blocks which I presume have replaced some of the ghetto areas that I saw. We drove past them quite quickly but from what I could tell they are awry with a mish mash of wooden tin shacks with corrugated tin roofs – not sure what was stopping them from falling down – with laundry hung out to dry sharing the same space as cooking pots, bikes, mopeds and cars – very much like what you see in films and although from a distance it looks like an exciting place I expect the inhabitants are looking forward to getting a decent flat in a high rise tower block. Street food is everywhere, and I also saw some very interesting looking marketplaces.

Tracey lives in a place called Fantasia Villa2, which is about a 20 from Bangkok centre and a world away from the ghetto areas I saw. It’s a gated complex for farangs (foreigners) Tracey’s nanny, Tiem, was not expecting me but still welcomed me with open arms while quickly making my bed. Tracey is at work and the girls are at school, so how did I know I had the right address, the bikes hanging from the wall, bike helmets, tread machine, Tooting Broadway sign and London underground map gave it away long before the pictures of Tracey and her family did.

Sitting in the communal garden area, next to the swimming pool 😊 I have just been approached by a guy on a motor bike who asked me if I was ok – awkward moment, not sure who he was until after he left – it was Si, Tracey’s other half, the way I responded you would have thought that I had never met him before – oh well – something to laugh about later! It was lovely and peaceful here an hour ago but since I’ve been sitting here writing lots of children have come home from school and now their parents are all standing around gossiping, without masks on – obviously English – time to go in and say hi to Si properly.

RIP – Emily Lawes – 1 year today

Thursday 9th December 2021

Uhm – I think I’m suffering jet lag. Last night I must have woken up about 6 times and then fell into a proper sleep at about 6am, after the cockerel stopped it’s early morning get up call. Next thing I know its 10am and I could have so easily kept on sleeping but needs must and with 2 cups of coffee now down the hatch I should try to do something constructive before its bedtime again.

Later… I went for a walk around the block – ok, so it doesn’t sound exciting and to be honest it wasn’t, but the truth be told I was too scared to cross the road. The traffic here is manic: yes, they drive on the same side of the road as us but that appears to be about the only similarity. I tried standing at what looked like a zebra crossing, but no car or ped or truck stopped so I continued my walk around the block. I also came across an overhead crossing (bridge) but it wasn’t crossing the road I wanted to cross, so again I continued my walk around the block.

Crossing the road will not defeat me – so I reached for the internet and did a search ‘how to cross the road in Thailand’ – hysterical but you’ll be surprised how many sites there are that cover this topic. Thailand is the second most dangerous country in the world for crossing the road – so my fears were not unjust. There are 5 safe ways to cross the road:

  • At a signal-controlled Intersection
  • Elevated Walkways
  • Metro Stations (MRT)
  • Skytrain Stations (BTS)
  • Traffic Islands

One site even advised looking for a crowd gathering to cross and join them – safety in numbers! Other tips included being patient as a gap in the traffic large enough for you to run through just might appear. And make sure you look both ways – sound obvious – but Thai drivers, especially ped drivers do not understand the meaning of a one-way street and will happily drive the wrong way down one, they are also known to drive down the wrong side of a busy road as well as on pavements. And unlike like at home, where being flashed by a driver basically means ‘I’ll slow down so you can cross’, here it means ‘get out of the fucking way before I knock you down’. So, make sure you look both ways.

With my new road safety knowledge at hand, I ventured out again for a stroll around the market which is across the road. What method did I use – patience the first time and it paid off, after about 5 minutes of traffic watching a gap large enough for me cross appeared and to the market I went. However, on the way home I waited 5 minutes in one spot, got bored, ventured a bit further down the road, waited another 5 minutes then ventured a little further and finally after another 5 minutes I found a zebra crossing – not that the traffic stopped for me, but finally a gap large enough for me to run through appeared and so I ran.

The market – I got there at about 3:30 and some stalls were still setting up but what an awesome site – the strangest of foods everywhere, including chicken foot soup! Some things looked very delicious even though it was hard to tell what they were, such as these balls things on sticks, but others, such as squid on sticks, not quite to my taste. And so many different varieties of fish and shellfish, and most was cooked and ready to eat. The raw meat stalls did not look appetizing especially with the flies gathering. And the smells were quite amazing and so varied, some divine and mouth-watering but one or two smelt of sewage waste. I only took a couple of pictures as I felt very self-conscious – obviously this needs to change, and I am sure it will as I develop my confidence over the next few days / weeks. I didn’t stay long. But guess what, I went back again later, this time with Si, who, as you would expect had no issues with crossing the road. He basically waited for a small gap in the traffic on the same side of us and headed out into the middle (with me tucked up safely behind him) once in the middle the cars going the other way actually slowed down to let him cross the rest of the way – brilliant – although I don’t recommend standing in the middle of busy road hoping for cars to stop – Si said as long as they can see you, you should be fine!

So, this time I had a market tour guide, and learnt a lot. Did you know that most Thai homes don’t have proper kitchens, so Thai people tend to visit markets such as these every day to purchase their pre-cooked dinner to take home and eat – hence the billions of street food stalls, and with squid sticks at 10 Bhat a go (less than 50p) it’s not expensive to eat good food all the time. Si also informed me that the ball things are made from either chicken or pork. Anyway, he bought a lettuce and a fish that had been cooked with lemon grass stuffed in its belly – so delicious. I’m going to have to take the strange food goggles off and start trying some of the Thai cuisine, everything that I read about it tells me it’s delicious and worth trying – can you imagine how boring my adventure will be if I don’t give these things a go? PS the fish Si bought was delicious, shame he didn’t know its name.

Saturday 11th December 2021

Still struggling with jet lag, wide awake at 2am, slept till 10.40! Had a chat with Si about this and he said that your body clock can only adjust by an hour a day (he read this in a book called The Science of Sleep). We are 7 hours ahead so it won’t be until at least Tuesday, if not Wednesday, that my sleeping pattern will be back to normal.

Today Elsie (Tracey’s eldest) took me to a shopping mall, EmQuartier. Not being one of my favourite places it turned out to be not too bad as there weren’t too many people, that is until we went into the food emporium, after that all I wanted to do was to go home, which was cool as that was the plan anyway. We did however visit a fabulous second-hand book shop, which is Elsie’s fav place to hang out on a Saturday afternoon, and I bought two books by Jo Nesbo, Cockroaches and Headhunters. We also went to the roof garden, which was very pretty, and had a Starbucks coffee, not so awesome, and took lots of selfies.

Thanks to Elsie, I now feel confident using the BTS (Bangkok Train Service) aka Skytrain, which is very much a cross between our overground and underground, and just like at home you put your money on a card and tap yourself in and out of the stations, easy peasy really, not sure why I was feeling nervous about it.

One thing I noticed today, compared to my last visit 20 years ago, is that the Thai people are getting fatter – hope I don’t sound rude but it’s true. Si informed me that this is due to an influx of junk food shops and Tracey said the Thai don’t like exercise.

Sunday 12th December 2021

OMG just had the most jokes with a taxi driver – but let me start at the beginning

This afternoon I went to Suan Luang park and had to pay 10 baht (20p) to get in! I was hoping to see dancers and Tai Chi and hop on a mini train round the park but, typical of me, I missed it all. However, I did see some amazing cacti and other plants and had a lot of fun just sitting on the grass people watching. I found the Thai people in the park very amusing, nearly all of them were either posing for photos, walking around taking selfie videos or posing in among the flowers and taking selfies, one female couple even had a teddy bear that they were posing with! And the joggers – lol – I saw, what must be, some of the slowest joggers in the world, a kind of walk-jog shuffle and some were actually walking but moving their arms as though they were jogging, and I recon at least 75% of them were dragging their feet as they went along, so so funny, but then I suppose jogging in 31 degree heat must be quite exhausting, so perhaps the slower you go the longer you can go for.

Anyway, once the sun set I decided it was time to leave and find myself a taxi – could I find the entrance I came in – no – but I did find the tennis courts and, just as I had read in a guide book somewhere, at about 5:50 music started playing from the lamp posts and then at 6pm the national anthem was played and everyone seated stood up and those that were on the move stood still – so I joined them – I read that you should as a mark of respect – this happens twice a day and most Thais are very patriotic and stop whatever they are doing for it.

I finally found an exit, but cars were leaving in one direction and the joggers in the opposite direction. Needing a taxi, I found myself to be the only person leaving in the same direction as the cars, but it paid off as I found myself on a main road. But typical of my luck all the taxis on my side of the road had their lights off or else a little neon red sign in the widow saying No with an X next to it, but on the other side, going the other way they all seemed to have their lights on – yes, the grass is greener on the other side! After about 15 minutes of walking up and down and dithering about whether to risk crossing the road or not along came one with its lights on, I hailed it and it stopped. The driver didn’t understand a word I was saying and even when I showed him the address said he didn’t know, then he asked me how much I would pay, so I quoted the same price as I paid to get the park and he drove off – without me.

15 minutes later I managed to cross the road (a break in the traffic got me to the middle and then a nice driver stopped so I could complete the crossing). It only took about 5 minutes before I was in the back seat of a taxi laughing my head off. Due to the English being very rich the driver spent at least 5 minutes trying to convince me to swap passports, I can stay here and eat spicey food and he can go to England and be cold. Then he wouldn’t believe I was 54 until I showed him my bat wings and it turned out he is the same age as Yasmin, so he started to call me mum. Then, after finding out I was single, not only did he fill me in about the girl boy, girl girl, boy boy, girl girl boy and boy girl girl situation out here, not to mention the ladyboys, he called up on his phone a Thai male escort service and said he would find a nice man for me and tried to give me the address of a club where I could easily pick up a man. Finally, he got onto silicone implants and asked if I had any in my breasts, he was so delighted when I told him I was all natural. I must admit I was very happy to see the pink bear just down the road from Tracey’s place and, realising we had overshot my final destination, I got him to stop and I walked the 300 yards home to safety and dinner.

Tuesday 14th December 2021

The little bugger that I saw flying round my bedroom yesterday has had a good munch on my left arm – Mabel (Tracey’s youngest) gave me some tiger balm last night for bites – did she know something that I didn’t?

Over the jet lag – Last night I fell asleep and slept as normal. I woke at 6am and could have gotten up but instead rolled over and fell back asleep – it’s now midday and I’m still in bad – lol.

Yesterday I went on the BTS to the Erawan Museum https://www.erawanmuseum.com/en/#erawanmuseum

The 3 headed elephant was enormous, far larger than I imagined. Overall, the museum was excellent, very interesting and I learnt a lot about Buddha and Kistna – but now I realise, typical of me, I missed the basement which contains a “collection of Chinese vases in the Ming and Qing dynasties, the famous Sangkhalok pottery from Sukhothai, Benjarong ceramics and Chakri tea sets” and “Other antiques there include old chairs and cabinets from the early Rattanakosin period and a Shiva statue in Khmer design from the Angkor Wat period.” (https://www.tour-bangkok-legacies.com/erawan-museum.html) I would have loved to have seen this ☹it’s a shame the museum cost so much to get into as I would go again just to see the basement – never mind.

The elephants made elephant noises as you walked under them – lol

Anyway, I really enjoyed what I did see however, its location was a distraction with noises from the traffic and blocks of flats in the background detracting from the experience – it felt as though the museum had been plonked in the middle of an urban area without much thought.

I lit 12 joss sticks for prosperity and wealth and watched 3 school children doing their prayer ritual.

On the way back to the station (the walk was not very nice – tons of rubbish and dog shit on the street – the poverty element of Thailand shining through – I noticed a strange waterway which I realised was attached to the back of some houses – I think it may have been their sewage system – it smelt and looked very unsavoury – no pics I’m afraid.

After the heat and walking around I decided a cold beer would go down a treat but the guy in 7 eleven, using Google translate, informed me that they do not sell alcohol until after 5pm! Had to pinch one of Si instead.

19:20 – got a message from Tracey earlier, at the hairdressers so no dinner tonight, help yourself to pasta or beans on toast. Was tempted to make scrambled egg, but did I come all this way to eat scrambled egg – so I did as the Thais do and off to the night market I did roam and OMG – I’m so glad I did. Meat balls on a stick, a frankfurter type sausage on a stick, both in the spiciest sauce ever and less than £1 and a pork and rice dish for about £2 – so bloody delicious – my taste buds are in heaven. As much as I love ya Tracey and have so appreciated you letting me stay and find my feet here I can’t wait to be out there doing it and trying it on my lonesome – such a wealth of culture and cuisine to explore and exactly what I came here for.

Wednesday 15th December 2021

Defo beginning to find my feet and confidence 😊 sitting outside a coffee shop called the secret mushroom, awaiting my baguette, drinking black coffee and loving the feeling. It’s only been a week since I left the hotel to come and stay with Tracey but it’s been a perfect setting for getting over the jet lag and awesome to see an old friend again. Off to Bangkok tomorrow and feeling ready for it. Tracey will be at work so will say goodbye to her , Si, Elsie and Mabel tonight. Thank you, you lovely people, so so much for your spare room and hospitality and letting me know that it is always there for me if I need it.omorro